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Before you bag up all those fallen leaves and send them to the curb, consider this: leaves are one of the best free resources for your garden. They’re packed with nutrients, they improve soil structure, and they provide winter protection for your plants. Here’s how to put them to work.
Why Leaves Are Garden Gold
- Free mulch: A 2 to 3 inch layer of shredded leaves insulates roots and suppresses weeds through winter.
- Soil builder: As leaves decompose, they add organic matter that improves drainage in clay soils and water retention in sandy soils.
- Nutrient recycler: As leaves break down, they return nutrients to the soil where your plants can use them.
- Habitat for beneficials: A leaf layer provides overwintering habitat for pollinators, beneficial insects, and other garden helpers.
How to Use Leaves in Your Garden
1
Shred Them First
Whole leaves can mat together and smother plants or repel water. Run your mower over them a couple of times to chop them into smaller pieces. Shredded leaves break down faster and stay in place better. If you don’t have a mower, a leaf blower with a vacuum/mulch function works great too.
2
Spread as Mulch
Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of shredded leaves around perennials, shrubs, and trees. Pull the mulch a few inches away from trunks and stems to prevent moisture buildup and rot. This insulating layer protects roots from freeze-thaw cycles and reduces the need for watering next spring.
3
Add to Compost or Work Into Beds
Shredded leaves are an excellent “brown” material for your compost pile. Mix them with “green” materials like kitchen scraps for balanced decomposition. You can also work shredded leaves directly into vegetable beds and annual beds. By spring, they’ll have broken down and enriched the soil.
A Couple Things to Watch For
Avoid Black Walnut Leaves: Black walnut trees produce a chemical called juglone that is toxic to many plants, especially tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and blueberries. Don’t use black walnut leaves as mulch or add them to compost that you’ll use on sensitive plants. If you have a walnut tree, bag those leaves separately.
Spring Cleanup: In early spring, gently pull back some of the leaf mulch from perennial crowns so new growth can emerge. You don’t have to remove it all. Just thin it out and let the rest continue to decompose in place.
October Specials
Balled and burlapped crabapple trees are 50% off, and concrete statues and pots are 25% off (glazed and unglazed pottery excluded). In-store only at our Cedarburg garden center.
See October Specials
Specials
Our balled and burlapped crabapple trees are half price this month, and the concrete statues and pots are 25% off. There’s still time to get a tree in the ground before winter.
50% Off Balled and Burlapped Crabapple Trees
That’s every balled and burlapped crabapple we have. If a flowering crab has been on your list for the yard, this is a good year to do it. The soil is still warm, and a tree planted now has the rest of the fall to settle its roots. Come walk the rows with us and we’ll help you pick one out.
We’ve written care guides on a lot of crabapple varieties over the years: Donald Wyman, Spring Snow, Louisa, Firebird, Pink Sparkles, Purple Prince, Tina, Lollipop, Showtime. Not all of them are in the yard right now, so ask us what’s here.
No warranties on sale products. In-store only at our Cedarburg garden center.
25% Off Concrete Statues and Pots
Concrete statues and pots are 25% off in the garden center. Glazed and unglazed pottery isn’t part of this one.
In-store only at our Cedarburg garden center.
The Ribbons Are Still Up
If you haven’t been out since September, the ribbon sale is still going. Find a ribbon on a plant and the discount comes off at the register.
We’re at 10801 Pleasant Valley in Cedarburg. See you in the yard.
Visit the Garden Center
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Fall is one of the best times to give your shrubs and trees a good pruning. The growing season is winding down, the leaves are dropping, and you can finally see the structure of your plants. Here’s how to make the most of fall pruning in Zone 5b.
Why Prune in Fall?
Reduced disease risk: Many fungal diseases are dormant in fall, so fresh cuts are less likely to become infected.
Better visibility: With leaves dropping, you can see the branch structure clearly and make smarter cuts.
Less stress on plants: Plants are entering dormancy, so they won’t waste energy trying to push new growth from pruning cuts.
Tidier landscape: Removing dead, damaged, or crossing branches now means a cleaner look heading into winter.
Spring head start: Plants pruned in fall can direct their energy toward healthy new growth when spring arrives.
How to Prune: 6 Steps
1
Start With the Dead Stuff
Remove any dead, diseased, or broken branches first. These are easy to spot — they’re brittle, discolored, or already snapped. Removing them prevents disease from spreading and gives you a clearer view of what’s left.
2
Remove Crossing or Rubbing Branches
Branches that cross over each other create friction wounds and invite disease. Choose the stronger, better-positioned branch and remove the other one.
3
Thin for Airflow
Open up the interior of the plant by removing a few inward-growing branches. Better airflow reduces the chance of fungal problems next season.
4
Shape the Plant
Step back and look at the overall form. Make selective cuts to encourage a natural, balanced shape. Don’t try to reshape everything at once — take off no more than one-third of the plant.
5
Make Clean Cuts
Use sharp, clean tools. Cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk). Don’t leave stubs and don’t cut flush — the collar helps the wound heal properly.
6
Clean Your Tools
Wipe your pruners and saw with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution between plants, especially if you removed any diseased wood. This prevents spreading problems from one plant to another.
Important Warnings
⚠️ Know What You’re Pruning: Some shrubs bloom on old wood — like lilacs, forsythia, and rhododendrons. If you prune them in fall, you’ll be cutting off next spring’s flower buds. These should be pruned right after they finish blooming, not in fall. If you’re not sure whether your shrub blooms on old or new wood, ask us — we’re happy to help.
⚠️ Prune Before the First Hard Frost: Get your pruning done before temperatures consistently drop below freezing. Fresh cuts on a hard-frozen plant can cause damage. In Zone 5b, aim to finish by mid-to-late October.
Specials
Cool mornings, warm soil. September gives southeast Wisconsin gardeners the best planting stretch of the year, and it’s also when the ribbons go up around the nursery.
The Ribbon Sale Is Happening Now
Walk the yard and you’ll find colored ribbons tied to plants throughout the nursery. Each color means a different discount. Four colors, four prices, nothing to bring with you and no code to remember. The ribbon on the plant does the work at the register.
| Ribbon Colors and Discounts |
|
Orange Ribbon |
25% off |
|
Hot Pink Ribbon |
35% off |
|
Blue Ribbon |
50% off |
|
Yellow Ribbon |
65% off |
Please note: No warranties on sale products. Ribbon pricing applies to in-store purchases at our Cedarburg garden center, not the online shop.
How to Shop It
There is no separate sale section to hunt down. The ribbons are tied to plants throughout the yard, mixed in with everything else, so the best approach is simply to walk the rows and look. A yellow ribbon on a shrub you already had your eye on is a good day.
Bring a list if you have one, but stay open. Part of the fun of a ribbon sale is finding something you weren’t shopping for at a price that makes the decision easy. If you are not sure whether a plant will work in your yard, ask. Our crew can tell you what it needs for sun, how big it gets, and whether it will hold up through a Wisconsin winter.
Why September Planting Works So Well in Zone 5b
The soil has been warming since June and it holds that heat well into October. Roots keep growing in warm ground long after the top of the plant has slowed down for the year. Cooler air means less stress on a new transplant and less watering for you. Put something in the ground this month and it spends the whole fall getting established. Water it deeply once a week until the ground freezes, and next spring it comes up like it has been there for years.
This is the reason a fall sale is worth paying attention to. A discounted plant in September is not a leftover, it is a plant going into the ground at the best possible time. Trees and shrubs in particular do better set out in fall than in the heat of midsummer, because they can put energy into roots instead of into holding leaves through a hot week.
Stop By This Month
The ribbons are up now. Come walk the yard, see what catches your eye, and let us help you get it home.
Happening Now
The Ribbon Sale
Orange 25% off. Hot pink 35% off. Blue 50% off. Yellow 65% off. No warranties on sale products. In-store only at our Cedarburg garden center.
Visit the Garden Center
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August in Southeast Wisconsin is when your garden is working hardest, and so is the sun. Temperatures regularly climb into the upper 80s and 90s, rainfall gets unpredictable, and your plants are drawing heavily on soil moisture to fuel late-summer growth, fruiting, and flower production.
This is the month where watering technique matters most. Shallow, frequent watering trains roots to stay near the surface where they are vulnerable to heat and drought. Deep watering does the opposite. It sends moisture down into the root zone where plants can access it even on the hottest days.
Here is how to water smarter this August in your Zone 5b garden.
Why Deep Watering Makes a Difference
Benefits of Deep Watering
- Deeper root growth. When water penetrates 6-8 inches into the soil, roots follow it down. Deeper roots mean stronger, more drought-tolerant plants that can access moisture even during dry spells.
- Less water lost to evaporation. A slow, deep soak puts water where it counts: below the surface. Quick sprinkles mostly evaporate before they reach the roots.
- Reduced disease pressure. Deep watering at the base keeps foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal diseases like powdery mildew, blight, and black spot on roses.
- Stronger plants going into fall. Plants that are well-watered through August go into September healthier. For perennials, shrubs, and trees, this means better winter hardiness in our Zone 5b climate.
- Less work overall. One or two deep waterings per week is more effective (and less effort) than daily light sprinkling.
How to Deep Water: 3 Simple Steps
You do not need fancy equipment. A hose, a soaker hose, or even a 5-gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom will do the job.
1
Water Low and Slow
Set your hose to a gentle trickle or lay a soaker hose along the base of your plants. The goal is to let water soak in rather than run off. For garden beds, run the soaker hose for 30-45 minutes. For individual trees and shrubs, let a slow trickle run at the base for 20-30 minutes. Water in the early morning when evaporation is lowest and leaves have time to dry before evening.
2
Check Your Depth
After watering, push a screwdriver or wooden dowel into the soil. It should slide easily to a depth of 6-8 inches. If it stops at 2-3 inches, you need to water longer. This simple test takes the guesswork out of it. Check in a few spots around your garden since soil can vary even within a single bed.
3
Water 1-2 Times Per Week (Not Every Day)
Most established gardens need about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in August, including rainfall. One or two deep soaking sessions per week is far better than a little water every day. Let the top inch of soil dry between waterings. This encourages roots to reach down for moisture rather than camping out at the surface. Newly planted trees and shrubs may need more frequent attention during their first summer.
Tips for Better Results
Get More From Every Drop
- Mulch your beds. A 2-3 inch layer of shredded bark, straw, or leaf mulch dramatically reduces evaporation and keeps soil temperatures more consistent. Pull mulch a couple inches away from plant stems to prevent rot.
- Prioritize what needs it most. Newly planted trees and shrubs, vegetables in active production (tomatoes, peppers, squash), and container plants need water first. Established native perennials and ornamental grasses are more forgiving.
- Watch your containers closely. Pots dry out much faster than garden beds, especially terra cotta. In August heat, large containers may need water daily and small pots twice a day.
- Use a rain gauge. A simple rain gauge in your garden takes the guessing out of “did we get enough rain this week?” If you got a solid inch, you can skip watering. If you got a quarter inch, you know what to make up.
- Group plants by water needs. If you are planning fall changes, note which plants needed extra water this summer and consider moving them together. Zoning by water needs saves time and resources.
A Note About Our Soil
SE Wisconsin Clay Soil: Water Differently
Many of us in the Cedarburg area and throughout Ozaukee County are gardening in heavy clay soil. Clay absorbs water slowly, so if you water too fast, it just runs off the surface. The fix is to water in cycles: soak for 10-15 minutes, let it absorb for 15-20 minutes, then soak again. This gives the clay time to take in the water. On the positive side, clay holds moisture longer than sandy soil, so once you get water down into the root zone, it stays available to your plants for days. Amending clay beds with compost over time improves both drainage and water retention.
August Watering Priorities
Here is a quick cheat sheet for what needs your attention most this month:
- Daily: Container plants, hanging baskets, newly seeded lawn areas
- Every 2-3 days: Vegetable garden (especially tomatoes, peppers, squash), newly planted trees and shrubs (first-year plantings)
- Weekly (deep soak): Established perennial beds, roses, hydrangeas
- Monitor but typically fine: Established native plants, ornamental grasses, mature trees and shrubs
If your plants are wilting in the afternoon heat but recovering by morning, that is normal heat stress, not necessarily a watering problem. If they are still wilted in the morning, they need a drink.
We Are Here to Help
Not sure if your watering setup is working? Wondering if a specific plant needs more or less water? Stop by Heritage Hill and ask us. We are happy to talk through your garden’s specific situation and help you find the right soaker hoses, mulch, or watering tools for your setup.
